The Labeling of Organic Textiles

Are organic labels on textiles green washing or not? It turns out they're legit and fairly regulated in the US, here's the facts:
According to the National Organic Program (NOP) regulations, USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural products through 7 CFR Part 205. The regulation covers the raw natural fibers (such as cotton, wool, flax, etc.), as being agricultural products covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Therefore, the off-farm treatment of raw organic fibers is not covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Although the NOP has no specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing standards, it may be possible for fibers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards to be processed and manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP standards.

“Only textile products certified to the NOP production and processing standards are eligible to be labeled “100 percent organic” and “organic.”

So what's in a name? There are three main categories:

100 percent Organic

• 100 percent organic fiber content.
• Only organic processing aids.
• USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail displays—in proximity to certified products only.
• All operations producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be certified.

Organic

• Minimum of 95 percent organic fiber content.
• 5 percent non-organic substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP regulation.
• No non-organic fibers.
• USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail displays—in proximity to certified products only.
• All operations producing, handling, processing, and manufacturing the final product must be certified.

Made with Organic Ingredients

• Must contain a minimum of 70 percent organic fibers. However, all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced and certified to NOP standards.
• May identify specific fibers as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.
• May state the percentage of organic fibers contained in the final product.
• May not use the USDA Organic seal.
• May not imply or lead the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic.

What Organic Means?

Organic fibers (cotton, hemp and linen) are grown without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides or fertilizers, sewage sludge, irradiation or genetic engineering, and are certified by an accredited independent organization. Strict laws and regulations are enforced by US Department of Agriculture and have been in place since 2002.
Organic wool must be produced in accordance with federal standards for organic livestock production and this include:livestock feed and forage used from the last third of gestation must be certified organic; use of synthetic hormones and genetic engineering is prohibited; use of synthetic pesticides is prohibited; and producers must encourage livestock health through good cultural and management practices.
Organic leather means that the hides used are from animals that are organically fed and humanely raised, and the tanning process uses plant tannins, vegetable tannins or smoke to cure the leather. This means that there is zero toxicity from the run at the tanning facilities.

Some brands and designers that are using organic fiber, wool and leather are:

C&A (Europe)	Disney	Nordstrom	Gaiam	Hanna Andersson
Hess Natur (Germany)	Nike	Macys	IKEA	Indigenous Designs
Howie's (U.K.)	American Apparel	REI	Gap, Inc.	Linda Loudermilk
People Tree (U.K.)	Patagonia	H&M	Eileen Fisher	Bloomingdales
Monoprix (France)	Marks & Spencer (Europe)	Levi Strauss	Diane von Furstenberg	and many more....

Children's Place - the Devil Is In the Details

After the recent recall of the Children’s Place pajamas due to excessive lead in paint, I wrote to Children’s Place and asked them what kind of paint are they using since there was excessive lead in their pajamas. I assumed that they are using lead-based paint since the recall was because of the excessive lead. Since there's a lot of creative writing in the recall document, there has to be creative reading: expect the worse cover-up and ask direct questions. They replied stating that the case “was an isolated incident”. I was not so happy with their answer (the lack of a direct answer, that is) so I sent them another e-mail asking what kind of paints are they using and I added questions about flame retardants used in pajamas and other of their clothes, whether they are using chemicals for stain-proofed and water-proofed clothes. Another person answered my e-mail and she repeated the previous non-answer: that was “an isolated incident”, yada yada, best regards kind of stuff. I wrote the 3rd email starting with the fact that they did not answer to none of my questions and then I repeated the questions. A 3rd person wrote me back the following:

"Thank you for contacting Customer Service with your questions. All prints and screen prints are tested for lead and meet all lead requirements.

The print stuff varies depending on the types of printing, but all paint meet lead requirements. Stain proof is in RTW and perhaps Derong Tu. The yarns are treated and the chemicals meet all government requirements. We sincerely hope we have answered your question.

If we can be of further assistance please contact us at 1-877 PLACE USA or visit us at www.childrensplace.com."

Again, they dodge the answers. I would like to know what kind of chemicals are they using in treating their products but given the avoided and then the ambiguous answers I have no doubt that they are using harmful chemicals like formaldehyde, bromine, caustic soda, and many other chemicals used for finishing. I know, if it’s not organic it’s not kosher! But having lead in children’s clothes while it is banned in children’ furniture should make anyone angry. So, if you bought cotton pajamas (from Children’s Place) thinking that they are free of flame retardants….well you may put on your children’s skin other chemicals – who knows what! Apparently they can't control their supply chain, they buy sight-unseen stuff from 3rd party manufacturers and test to the minimal regulation requirements. That's what transpires from the e-mails.

I started to write to some more other companies that are manufacturing children clothes and I still wait for answers. Until then, I will not shop at Children’s Place again. I wonder if there is any independent lab that does testing like those for toys and cars; anyone heard about one?

Target Gets its Eco-Apparel Line

More stores jump on the green and organic bandwagon; now Target (with a marketing splash at Barneys New York and designed by Gregory). Gregory uses 100% certified organic cotton and other natural fibers, such as silk and linen, and his collections are sold at Barneys and Bloomingdale's. Gregory is the eleventh Go International designer who is adding his talent and design into the Target's Go International program, a private label collection that features the hottest trends for guests who welcome individual style at an affordable price. The line includes loose tanks, wrap dresses and hoodies, striped vest, wide-leg trousers, jeans, a strapless knit dress, crochet tunic, trapeze tanks, a plaid linen dress created from organic cotton, linen, bamboo and hemp and the price range is between $14.99 - $44.99.

You can have your (Barney) cake and (afford to) eat it, too.

If you would like to read the whole article go here.

Certification of Organic Cotton

When I looked for organic cotton clothes for example, many times I did not find any certification labels accompanying the statement so I am not so sure that the claim is certainly true. Certification of organic cotton production adds credibility to the final product, assures the buyer of the organic status of the product and also encourages payment of premium prices to farmers who engage in organic practices. When a producer is "certified organic," an independent organization has verified that the company meets or exceeds defined organic standards. Certified organic farms are inspected regularly and must maintain comprehensive records of their production methods. After a little search I found that there are many programs (more or less credible) which regulate the organic cotton. Here is a list with the most recognized ones:
The International Federation of Organic Agriculture Movements (IFOAM) - produced basic standards covering organic production and also textile processing which provide a minimum basis upon which standards in many countries have been based.
The International Organic Accreditation Service (IOAS)
The Organic Crop Improvement Association (OCIA)
KRAV - in Europe and is a memebr of IFOAM
SCAL - in Europe

I have also found that there is a difference between Organic cotton and Certified Organic cotton.
Organic refers to the standards employed in the production of the raw agricultural products while Certified Organic means that the cotton is untreated by synthetic chemicals and toxic dyes and is manufactured under highest standards to ensure they retain their organic integrity.