The Labeling of Organic Textiles

Are organic labels on textiles green washing or not? It turns out they're legit and fairly regulated in the US, here's the facts:
According to the National Organic Program (NOP) regulations, USDA regulates the term “organic” as it applies to agricultural products through 7 CFR Part 205. The regulation covers the raw natural fibers (such as cotton, wool, flax, etc.), as being agricultural products covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Therefore, the off-farm treatment of raw organic fibers is not covered under the NOP crop/livestock production standards. Although the NOP has no specific fiber or textile processing and manufacturing standards, it may be possible for fibers grown and certified to NOP crop/livestock standards to be processed and manufactured into textile and other products which meet NOP standards.

“Only textile products certified to the NOP production and processing standards are eligible to be labeled “100 percent organic” and “organic.”

So what's in a name? There are three main categories:

100 percent Organic

• 100 percent organic fiber content.
• Only organic processing aids.
• USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail displays—in proximity to certified products only.
• All operations producing, handling, processing and manufacturing the final product must be certified.

Organic

• Minimum of 95 percent organic fiber content.
• 5 percent non-organic substances, as listed in Section 205.605 of the NOP regulation.
• No non-organic fibers.
• USDA Organic seal may be displayed on final product, in marketing materials, and in retail displays—in proximity to certified products only.
• All operations producing, handling, processing, and manufacturing the final product must be certified.

Made with Organic Ingredients

• Must contain a minimum of 70 percent organic fibers. However, all fibers identified in these textile products as “organic” must be produced and certified to NOP standards.
• May identify specific fibers as being organic if certified to the NOP crop/livestock standards.
• May state the percentage of organic fibers contained in the final product.
• May not use the USDA Organic seal.
• May not imply or lead the consumer to believe that the final product is certified organic.

What Organic Means?

Organic fibers (cotton, hemp and linen) are grown without the use of toxic and persistent pesticides or fertilizers, sewage sludge, irradiation or genetic engineering, and are certified by an accredited independent organization. Strict laws and regulations are enforced by US Department of Agriculture and have been in place since 2002.
Organic wool must be produced in accordance with federal standards for organic livestock production and this include:livestock feed and forage used from the last third of gestation must be certified organic; use of synthetic hormones and genetic engineering is prohibited; use of synthetic pesticides is prohibited; and producers must encourage livestock health through good cultural and management practices.
Organic leather means that the hides used are from animals that are organically fed and humanely raised, and the tanning process uses plant tannins, vegetable tannins or smoke to cure the leather. This means that there is zero toxicity from the run at the tanning facilities.

Some brands and designers that are using organic fiber, wool and leather are:

C&A (Europe)	Disney	Nordstrom	Gaiam	Hanna Andersson
Hess Natur (Germany)	Nike	Macys	IKEA	Indigenous Designs
Howie's (U.K.)	American Apparel	REI	Gap, Inc.	Linda Loudermilk
People Tree (U.K.)	Patagonia	H&M	Eileen Fisher	Bloomingdales
Monoprix (France)	Marks & Spencer (Europe)	Levi Strauss	Diane von Furstenberg	and many more....

“Six Sins of Greenwashing™”

These days I came across the “Six Sins of Greenwashing™ ” and I have found it very interesting to share it. TerraChoice Environmental Marketing Inc. - an environmental consulting agency based in Canada surveyed 1,018 consumer products affirming 1,753 environmental claims and 99% of the products were found to have claims that mislead the consumers.

1. Sin of the Hidden Trade-Off (57%) "Focus" on the positive (and ignore the bad details): A product is “green” based on a single environmental attribute (the recycled content of paper, for example) or an unreasonably narrow set of attributes (recycled content and chlorine free bleaching) without attention to other important, or perhaps more important, environmental issues (such as energy, global warming, water, and forestry impacts of paper). Examples: paper, household insulation products, office technology, ink cartridges, laundry detergents, dish detergent, air fresheners, bathroom cleaners, markers, flooring laminate, bags, multi-purpose cleaners, wood panels, and pesticides.

2. Sin of No Proof (26%) "Believe": Any environmental claim that cannot be validated by easily accessible supporting information, or by a reliable third-party certification. Examples: household lamps and lights, personal care products, facial tissues and paper towels.

3. Sin of Vagueness (11%) "Buzz-word du jour": Claims that are so poorly defined or broad that its real meaning is likely to be misunderstood by the consumer such as: “Chemical-free” (everything is made of chemicals), “Non-toxic” (everything can be toxic), “All Natural” (many natural elements are poisonous like arsenic), “Green”, “Environmentally friendly”, and “Eco-conscious” (meaningless without further explanation). Examples: Garden insecticides promoted as “chemical-free”, “Natural” hair mousse, kitchen (wax) paper that claims “recycled content”, general purpose household cleaners that claim to be “non-toxic” without explanation or third-party substantiation.

4. Sin of Irrelevance (4%) "Meat-free vegetables": Environmental claims that are truthful but unimportant and unhelpful for consumers seeking environmentally preferable products. The most frequent irrelevant claim is CFC-free (chlorofluorocarbons) which is legally banned for almost 30 years. Examples: CFC-free insecticides, CFC-free lubricants, CFC-free oven cleaners, CFC-free window cleaners, CFC-free disinfectants.

5. Sin of Fibbing (1%) "Let's put some lipstick on this pig": Environmental claims that are false. Examples: “Certified Organic”, (without providing the certification) found on many shampoos; “Energy Star” registered (the Energy Star website suggests this is false); “100% recycled paper” on containers made from plastic found on a dishwasher detergent.

6. Sin of Lesser of Two Evils (1%) "Organic death sentence": “Green” claims that may be true within the product category, but at risk distracting the consumer from the greater environmental impacts of the category as a whole. Examples: Organic cigarettes (although this may be true, the consumer should be discouraged to smoke); “Green” insecticides and herbicides. This is a great list of white lies (or is it green lies?) that reminded me of this pillow which is guilty on soo many counts... I wish all marketing has as much common sense as the 'Greenwashing' article.

If you want to weed out the buzz from the real green products, you can:

- keep in mind the six sins when you are purchasing products with environmental claims.
- be aware of the labels of the products. I posted earlier lists of cosmetic, house cleaning products, and food labels with a description for each.
- read reviews or write reviews for both good and bad experiences. - read my blog daily (it's green, really :)

Wise Word: Cosmetic Labels

Label	Where?	What it means?	Is it verified?	Is it meaningful?
Leaping Bunny	Skin, hair, eye care products, mouth care products, sunscreens, fragrance products, makeup products.	It signifies that the product is made by a company that adheres to the Corporate Standard of Compassion for Animals (developed by the Coalition for Consumer Information on Cosmetics ).	Yes. The CCIC verifies and the products have to be marked with the logo. Check the companies at www.leapingbunny.org	Yes. The logo indicates that the product is made by a company who pledges that its ingredient suppliers do not conduct or commission animal testing of their products after the date of the agreement.
Certified Vegan	Skin, eye, hair, shaving products, baby products, bath products, medications.	Contains no animal ingredients or by-products, use no animal ingredients or by-products in the manufacturing process, and not tested on animals by any company or independent contractor.	Yes, the Vegan Awareness Foundation.	Yes. These products should have the logo of the Vegan Awareness Foundation.
No Methylparaben or Propylparaben/ No Parabens	Skin, hair care products, baby products.	The product does not contain any parahydroxy-benzoate (paraben) preservatives.	No.	Yes. The claim is very specific. Check the list of ingredients.
No Sodium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate	Skin, hair, eye care products, mouth care products, baby products, makeup products.	No standard definition. However the claim is very specific.	No.	Yes. The claim is very specific.
100% Vegetarian Ingredients	Skin, hair care products, bath products, sunscreens, fragrance.	Avoids animal products for cosmetics	No.	Somewhat. Check the list of ingredients. Cosmetics are required to list their ingredients with the exception of fragrance.
Alcohol Free	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, fragrance products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	It implies that the product does not contain alcohol.	No.	Somewhat. Check the list of ingredients. Cosmetics are required to list their ingredients with the exception of fragrance.
Biodegradable	Skin, hair, shaving products, bath products, baby products, sunscreens.	A product is degradable when exposed to air, moisture, bacteria or other organisms and that the materials will break down and return to nature within a reasonably short time after customary disposal.	No.	Somewhat. Some products may take longer to biodegrade. Note: Being biodegradable does not mean it is healthy or safe for you or the environment. There are toxins that biodegrade in even more toxic substances.
DEA Free	Bath products, skin, hair care products, eye makeup, baby products, sunscreens.	The product does not contain the ingredient diethanolamine(DEA).	No.	Somewhat. It is a fairly specific claim. However, many companies do not use this ingredient anymore. Check the list of ingredients!
Antibacterial/ Antimicrobial/ Bactericidal/ Germicidal/ Kills Germs/ Kills Pathogenic Bacteria	Skin and mouth care products, sunscreens.	The product contains substances that kills or inhibits the growth of bacteria.	Yes. FDA regulates the use of this claim on lotions, hand washes, soaps, cosmetics and other personal care products.	Somewhat. FDA did not approve the claim on any lotion.
No Animal By-products/ No Animal Ingredients	Skin, hair products, bath products, fragrance products, sunscreens.	No standard definition. It means that no ingredients are by-products from slaughtered or rendered animals.	No.	Somewhat. Check the list of ingredients.
No Detergents	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, feminine hygiene products, mouth care products, fragrance products, and sunscreens.	No standard definition.	No.	Somewhat. It may still contain harsh solvents or cleaning chemicals as an alternative to detergents. Check the list of ingredients.
No Parrafin/ No Paraffin Wax	Skin, hair, eye care products, sunscreens, makeup products.	The products does not contain any substances that are derived from petroleum, coal tar, wood tar.	No.	Somewhat. Check the list of ingredients and look for words like methane, ethane, propane, butane, octane, mineral oil.
Water-based	Skin and hair care products, makeup products, fragrance products, baby products.	No standard definition. Water-based products can contain chemicals that are harmful to health.	No.	Somewhat. It is not meaningful on products that contain mostly water. Check the list of ingredients.
Fragrance Free	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, feminine hygiene products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	It implies that the product does not contain any fragrances.	No.	Somewhat. Check the ingredients!
100% Biocompatible	Skin care and mouth care.	It implies that is “tolerated by the living organisms”	No.	No. The word is invented by manufacturers.
100% Vegan	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, fragrance products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	Does not contain any animal-derived ingredients.	No.	No.
Allergy Tested	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, fragrance products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	It implies that a product was tested for allergic reactions on skin.	No.	No. FDA states that manufacturers are not required to perform tests to prove the claim and states that all cosmetics are possible to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive people. In general, fragrance is the most likely ingredient to produce allergy.
Cruelty Free	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, fragrance products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	No standard definition.	No.	No. Some companies can use materials that were tested on animals many years back; others can test their raw products on animals but not the final products; others may indeed not use animal testing.
Dermatologist Tested	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, fragrance products, mouth care products, and sunscreens.	It implies that a product was tested by a dermatologist and shown to not cause any skin reactions.	No.	No. FDA states that manufacturers are not required to perform tests to prove the claim and states that all cosmetics are possible to cause an allergic reaction in sensitive people. In general, fragrance is the most likely ingredient to produce allergy.
Effective Against E. Coli and Staphylococcus	Skin care, products, sunscreens, and mouth care products.	The product kills or inhibits the growth of two specific types of bacteria that can cause disease: E. coli and staphylococcus.	Yes, it is regulated by FDA (on lotions, hand washes, soaps, cosmetics and other personal care products).	No. FDA has not yet finalized its rules; and did not approve the claim on any lotion.
Environmentally Friendly/ Environmentally Preferable/ Environmentally Safe	Skin care products, bath products.	It implies that the product or packaging has some kind of environmental benefit or that it causes no harm to the environment.	No.	No. The U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) considers this claim too vague.
Hypoallergenic/ Non Irritating	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, feminine hygiene products, mouth care products, fragrance products, and sunscreens.	It implies that a product will be less likely to cause allergic reactions or irritate the skin.	No.	No. FDA considers products claiming to be “hypoallergenic” or “non irritating” as misbranded.
No Synthetic Detergents	Skin and hair care products, baby products.	No standard definition.	No.	No. All detergents and soap products are synthetic. Regardless of the source, the oils used must be chemically processed to make the surfactant.
Non Comedogenic	Skin and hair care products, makeup products, sunscreens.	The product does not contain common pore-clogging ingredients that could lead to acne. However, there is no official FDA definition or list of ingredients that are considered to be non-comedogenic.	No.	No. FDA considers products claiming “non comedogenic” as misbranded.
Sensitivity Tested	Skin, hair, nail, eye care, makeup, feminine hygiene, shaving products, bath products, baby products, feminine hygiene products, mouth care products, fragrance products, and sunscreens.	It implies a product was tested for sensitivity on skin.	No.	No. FDA considers products claiming “sensitivity tested” as misbranded.
Unscented	Skin care products, shaving products, bath products, fragrance products, baby products.	It implies that the product does not have any odor or scent.	No.	No. FDA considers products claiming to be “unscented” as misbranded.

Wise Word: House Cleaning Products Labels

Label	Where?	What it means?	Is it verified?	Is it meaningful?
Certified Biodegradable	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, glass, and metal cleaners.	The product will biodegrade in the environment: is not toxic to aquatic organisms, that it does not contain phosphates or other compounds that contribute to eutrophication and that the ingredients will not adversely impact the environment by displacing other harmful substances already present.	Yes, Scientific Certification Systems (SCS), an independent certifier, has developed certification standards for biodegradable soaps, detergents, and cleaners.	Yes, SCS ’s standards require testing to show 70% biodegradation within 28 days into carbon dioxide, water, and minerals under conditions where oxygen is present, and to ensure that whatever material is left after biodegradation is not toxic to aquatic organisms.
Certified Vegan	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture and floor cleaner.	Contain no animal ingredients or by-products, use no animal ingredients or by-products in the manufacturing process, and not tested on animals by any company or independent contractor.	Yes, the Vegan Awareness Foundation.	Yes. These products should have the logo of the Vegan Awareness Foundation.
Bactericidal/ Germicidal/ Kills Germs/ Kills Pathogenic Bacteria/ Antibacterial/ Antimicrobial	Bathroom, kitchen, and laundry cleaners, sponges.	Bactericidal/Germicidal: it contains substances that kill the bacteria. Antibacterial/Antimicrobial: it contains substances that kills or inhibits the growth of bacteria.	Yes, EPA regulates all household cleaning products and laundry detergents that claim to have bactericidal or antimicrobial/antibacterial properties except dishwashing soap.	Yes. EPA reviews the claims, to ensure that the active ingredient meets required safety and effectiveness tests, and that the product is labeled properly.
Effective Against E. Coli and Staphylococcus	Bathroom, kitchen and laundry cleaners.	The product kills or inhibits the growth of two specific types of bacteria that can cause disease: E. coli and staphylococcus.	Yes, it is regulated by EPA.	Yes. EPA reviews the information, to ensure that the active ingredient meets required safety and effectiveness tests, and that the product is labeled properly.
Mold and Mildew Resistant	Bathroom and kitchen cleaners.	The product is or contains an antimicrobial chemical which interferes with the growth of mold and mildew.	Yes, it is regulated by EPA.	Yes. The EPA does requires safety testing of active ingredients.
Reduces Risk of Food-borne Illness from Bacteria	Bathroom and kitchen cleaners.	It implies that the product kills or inhibits the growth of disease-causing bacteria in or on food (or hands or items touching the food).	Yes, It is regulated by EPA.	Yes. The EPA requires testing of active ingredients to ensure that are safe and efficacious.
Retards the Growth and Odors of Bacterial Odors	Bathroom and kitchen cleaners.	The product contains an antimicrobial chemical which helps to slow the development of odor by killing or inhibiting the growth of odor-causing microbes.	Yes, It is regulated by EPA.	Yes. The EPA requires testing of active ingredients to ensure that are safe and efficacious.
No Sodium Lauryl or Laureth Sulphate	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	No standard definition. However the claim is very specific.	No.	Yes. The claim is very specific.
Biodegradable	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, floor, furniture, glass, metal, and wood cleaners.	A product is degradable when exposed to air, moisture, bacteria or other organisms and that the materials will break down and return to nature within a reasonably short time after customary disposal.	No.	Somewhat. Some products may take longer to biodegrade. Note: Being biodegradable does not mean it is healthy or safe for you or the environment. There are toxins that biodegrade in even more toxic substances.
DEA-free	Glass an metal cleaners.	The product does not contain the ingredient diethanolamine(DEA).	No.	Somewhat. It is a fairly specific claim. However, many companies do not use this ingredient anymore.
Includes Biodegradable Surfactants (Anionic or Nonionic)/Includes Biodegradable Surfactants, Enzymes, and Brightening Agents	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	No specific standard definition.	No.	Somewhat. They do not refer to the product as a whole. Note: Many ingredients in soap and detergent products are biodegradable regardless labeling.
No Animal By-products/ No Animal Ingredients	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	No standard definition. It means that no ingredients are by-products from slaughtered or rendered animals.	No.	Somewhat.
No Detergents	Bathroom, kitchen, wood, and furniture cleaners.	No standard definition.	No.	Somewhat. It may still contain harsh solvents or cleaning chemicals as an alternative to detergents.
No Phosphate/Phosphate Free/Contains No Phosphorus	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	It implies that a product contains no phosphate chemicals.	No.	Somewhat. Starting in 1994, major manufacturers of laundry detergents had all eliminated phosphate from their products.
TEA-free	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	The product does not contain the ingredient triethanolamine, or TEA.	No.	Somewhat. It is a fairly specific claim.
Water-based	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	No standard definition. Water-based products can contain chemicals that are harmful to health.	No.	Somewhat. It is not meaningful on products that contain mostly water.
100% Biocompatible	Bathroom, kitchen and laundry cleaners.	No standard definition. Manufacturers suggest that it means "tolerated by living organisms."	No.	No.
100% Vegan	Floor, laundry, glass, metal, wood, kitchen, and bathroom cleaners.	Does not contain any animal-derived ingredients.	No.	No.
Cruelty Free/No Animal Testing	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	No standard definition.	No.	No. Some companies can use materials that were tested on animals many years back; others can test their raw products on animals but not the final products; others may indeed not use animal testing.
Eco Safe/ Environmentally Friendly/ Environmentally Preferable/ Environmentally Safe	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	It implies that the product or packaging has some kind of environmental benefit or that it causes no harm to the environment.	No.	No.The U.S. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) considers this claim too vague.
Gray Water Safe	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	It implies that they will not interfere with the proper functioning of graywater collection and treatment systems.	No.	No. The NSFC states that any cleaning product is safe to use with graywater systems, so long as the product is used in accordance with the product label.
No Synthetic Detergents	Laundry cleaners.	No standard definition.	No.	No. All detergents and soap products are synthetic. Regardless of the source, the oils used must be chemically processed to make the surfactant.
Non-fuming	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	It suggests that the product or substance does not give off vapors (gases), dusts, and/or smoke (physical and chemical).	No.	No.
Non-biotoxic/ Non-toxic	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	It suggests that a product, substance, or chemical will not cause adverse health effects, either immediately or over the long-term, to biological organisms.	No.	No. A product that does not meet the definition of “toxic” according to the Consumer Product Safety Commission should not necessarily be considered non-toxic.
Septic Tank Safe	Bathroom, kitchen, laundry, wood, furniture, glass, and metal cleaners.	The product is safe to use in a septic tank system.	No.	No. The NSFC states that any cleaning product is safe to use with septic tank systems, so long as the product is used in accordance with the product label.